Hawkes Bay NZ

Did we tell you, that New Zealand is dotted with sheep? Well, they have a lot of beef stock and dairy cattle too. In the 1980's the sheep population had grown to over 80 million (that is 20 sheep per 1 Kiwi - the NZ term for their citizens, excluding the native Maori's - but about them later)

(The biggest bull I have seen in years)

(Typical view from the road)

(All deer were wondering what I was doing)

The market prices drove the cattle population up and the sheep population down and now you will also find deer in penned meadows to supply venison to the protein markets.

(100 km/hr-62 m/hr is max speed in NZ, and 4 km/2.5m over is permissible and still this)

Driving down to our next base, Napier in Hawkes Bay, we marveled over the scenery we encountered.

(Snow capped mountains in the distance)

(Part of Lake Taupo, NZ largest inland lake, caldera formed)

(Aggressive swan is threatening me, as I want to make a lake picture - I retreated)

We made it a full day drive down and stopped midway near Rotorua and took a boat tour on a volcanic lake: Rotomahana. Pictures will tell that story better than words.

(Our boat for the volcanic lake Rotomahana tour near Rotorua)

(Pretty lake view with black swans)

(Above and below geyser activity on lake edge)

We even passed a sign directing us to "craters of the moon" (Linda you seem to have competition). Unfortunately time did not permit a visit.

(Only in New Zealand)

NZ has the highest car per person ratio of 2.2 cars per citizen in the world. But outside the cities and away from motorways, you will drive almost as the only people left on earth, between lush fresh spring green hills, dotted with flowers in multiple colors, filled with white sheep and their young offspring or cattle - their offspring being penned in separate fenced meadows.

(Love the colors)

The lumber industry seems to be the sole competitor to the farms, showing us deforested hills, newly replanted hills and full grown forests awaiting their fate. Logging trucks were slowing us down regularly.

We had two wonderful driving days, coming from and going to Auckland. We hope the pictures will do it justice.

Funny signs on the roads were: "frosty roads" and "stock effluent waste disposal site" with an added message for the disposers: "no human waste allowed".

(We wished we did not have to leave)

Kiwis and Aussies like abbreviations: "Mihi school" - a sign that directs you to a Middle and High school complex.

(The 2 left windows are our apartment)

We arrived in Poraiti at our apartment for the last week in New Zealand late afternoon, to be greeted by our hosts Darryl and Christine, who we got to know as friends by the time we left, (they wined and dined us, and we tried to reciprocate a few evenings later).

(Above and below views from our apartment)

The location, a little Garden of Eden, is absolutely representative of this country. We looked from our deck over wetlands down below and raising our gaze, over green hills under blue skies.

(Our resident Tui on his favorite branch and enjoying flowers' sweetness on the other side of our window)

(The flower Tui likes most)

A very territorial native bird, a "Tui" ruled over the garden, swooping from its chosen perch down and thus assuring supremacy over his land. We were told this bird, who by the way likes honey - he visited often a flower bush beside our deck and joined the bees in extracting the red flower's golden liquid - can be tought different calling sounds.

(Rose bushes in the driveway)

Down below in the overgrowth of the wetlands hide 3 shy "Bittner" birds.

(Bittner picture according to Erik, down below near the bench area)

These birds are so rare, that having a stewardship over an area, that is inhabited by 3 of the likely no more that 900 birds known to exist, gives an exceptional extra dimension to this location. We pride ourselves to have seen them. Our host tried to deflate our pride, by telling us, that they most likely were a different species also inhabiting these wetlands. Blurry pictures may make it impossible for Darryl to prove we were wrong.

It is only 15 to 20 minutes away from the cities vendors, where butcher's and green grocer's wares can be obtained, to be placed on the "barbie", the colloquial of what each self respecting Australasian citizen must have on their deck, balcony or in the yard.

Hawkes Bay's reputation is wine. So the following evening, we piled in a van and picked up 3 more couples to be ferried to 3 wineries, where we subsequently had appetizers, main course and dessert all accompanied with their own wines.

(Views from Mata Peak during wine dinner tour)

(The wine dinner tour offerings)

(Passing friendships made for one night of fun)

A trip between wineries brought us to Te Mata Peak, the highest spot in the area to view the setting sun and enjoy a glass of bubbles. However the cutting cold winds did shorten the stay there. During this season of late spring the "roaring fourties" winds (these winds are prevalent between the 40 and 50 degree parallels) with up to 20-30 plus km force, is the climate spoiler of an otherwise very pleasant climate.

(Mission winery was the desert stop around 10.30 pm)

On Sunday, November 30, we visited Napiers Presbyterian church and found ourselves celebrating St Andrews Day. The service was all about blessing the Tartans. Aging Scots displayed their clans cloth and the bagpiper brought the necessary atmosphere during this our most unusual Advents service. A guitar playing minister, a harmonica, fiddle and drum set completed this event, bringing sometimes unwanted smiles between us.

(Art Deco walk and what we noticed while listening to our guide)

The Sunday afternoon was spent on a walk themed: "Napier, Art Deco Capital of the World". On February 3, 10.47am, a 7.8 on the Richter scale earthquake shook Napier for two and a half minutes and leveled the city of then 16000 citizens. 161 of its citizens died and a hundred more elsewhere.

The citizens rebuilt the city in a 2 year time span in a then popular building style, now called Art Deco. And so we found ourselves wandering with an eloquent guide through a city center that truly represents that period very well.

(Arty picture in glass wall)

(Wine tandem tour pictures follow here)

Another highlight here was a sunny wind free tandem bike ride, a 22 km/15 mile winery bike tour, where we learned, that the alcohol laws here have just become more restrictive, from .08 alcohol blood levels, like in most US states, to .05.

(Who trims these hedges, placed strategically surrounding fruit trees)

We were thus allowed, at least the one driving us back home, 1 and a half glass of wine during this trip. Every full sized, full strength beer bottle, we inspected after this revelation, has imprinted on the bottle: 1 "standard drink", to make people aware of how much males and females can consume and still drive. I forgot to check the local wine bottles.

(Next years wine is budding)

We leave this last country, where we speak a language they understand, for China, hoping to return one day.

Oh, and about those Maori I promised to talk about: 1840 was the year the Kiwis and Maori signed a contract recognizing the British crown. Thus the Maoris became British subjects under the same laws of the now newly founded commonwealth state. Maori had interest in the technology those white people brought and Kiwis needed land to settle on and presumably live in peace with their native neighbors. So unlike the US, no forced deportations to carved out often barren reservations.

(You can see we had fun doing this)

Well, the Maori must have forgotten to read some of the small print. 40,000 British soldiers had to be shipped here to quell unrest over land sale issues and other supposed infringement of rights, that brought the Maoris to battle fields and guerrilla warfare. The courts are still filled with cases and reparation money is still being doled out to pay for past perceived unjustice through court awarded settlements. But historically speaking, the main accomplishment is, that Moari and Kiwis live peacefully side by side throughout the islands.

(NZ yams - never seen before)

Below, what we couldn't forget to mention, as we think, you should definitely in the future inquire about delivery times of the menus proteins.

Overheard in a restaurant, where our pork dish was abysmally dry: "oh, our beef just came in today, so it has not aged yet. I would order it well done, so it won't be tough if I were you"

 

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