Milan and the Lake District
Staring out of our Amsterdam condo windows over the windy canal scene, where people rush about, shivering or heavily covered in coats and shawls, I realize myself again, that the Netherlands are so much closer to the North Pole than Virginia. I know that, that is not an earth shattering revelation, but these musings only occur, when you are in the midst of such circumstances.
We are packing for a week plus trip to Milan and the famous Lake District in northern Italy. We both have never seen that part of the country we like best among all european countries to visit. (Wouldn't wish to live there, but visiting is every time an opportunity to fall in love with the elements of surprise, that Italy always offers its visitors.)
Milan is the fashion centre of Italy, the city of Leonardo da Vinci's "Last Supper" mural, it's where we should take a peek into La Scala, even when I dislike operas as a waste of time, similar to never understanding the fascination with fishing.
Lake Como, just an hour away by train, is lauded as one of the loveliest lakes in Europe. We hope to have a few days there, perched against the mountainside, while lounging on the terrace in front of our hotel room, sipping a glass of wine.
La dolce vita beckons, especially when you stare at the cold scene outside, looking at the winterly clad tourists, that had the bad luck of wanting to visit Amsterdam at the wrong time.
A little Fiat cabriolet will find its way from lake to lake and the Bernina express will bring us to St Moritz Switzerland in about two and half hours, zigzagging through the mountains, which at this time in spring still should show considerable snow.
All in all, this trip southward should have all elements of dreamy beauty.
Well, today is the day and the first snag is a one and a half hour delay at the airport. If it wasn't for the lounge here I would be peeved.
At this stage I will suspend the story till we have arrived in Milan. So stay tuned.
Well all is well after arriving in Milan. We walked and walked and walked. It is a charming small downtown area with everything one wants to see and do in a one square kilometer area: Duomo, la Scala, fashion area, da Vinci's Last Supper, the Sforzesco castle (named after one of the last brutal Dukes of Milan) and there is even an Arc de Triomphe in honor of Napoleon, after many before him and after him he was an usurper the Milanese loved.
But the real surprise was the Cimitero Monumentale. I have always had a fascination with graveyards. Sandee can tell multiple stories about that, like how I took her during her first visit to me in Richmond to Hollywood cemetery, a place where we will be interred one day.
The ornate Milanese cemetery is a one of its kind. I have never seen the competitive nature of the citizens reflected better, than here in their family graves. And of course there are different leagues of competition to choose from, as wealth is certainly required. As always this blog is about pictures and not the written word, so see for yourself.
The Duomo with its rooftop access is unique and this church can definitely compete in being the "foremost" in Europe, but my choice would be the Maria Della Grazie church, not because of its beauty, but of the fact that two different building styles that clashed in the days of change from Baroque to Renaissance culminated into the destruction of the baroque apse, which then became a classic example of early renaissance under a towering dome. Enter from the back into baroque splendor and move towards an almost bare hexagonal front.
Since in its early days it had been a monastery, one will find when entering a side door, the now climatized dining hall adjacent to Maria Della Grazie, where Leonardo da Vinci made his famous Last Supper fresco. Leonardo with no last name, as he was a bastard to a famous Florentine lawyer, from the village of Vinci nearby, was a slow painter, who constantly corrected himself. And since working "al fresco" requires "fast" painting on wet fresh plaster, his work did not last long and started to deteriorate within a few years, because his plaster would be dry before he finished painting. It is ironic that in Milan his most famous work is thus a failed product of art.
After much restauration it still shows however an emotional picture of a lone Christ, who just told of Judas betrayal and his disciples in a state of excited curiosity as to who the betrayer was. Since picture taking was not allowed hereby a picture of a picture.
Next blog Varenna perched at Lake Como
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