Amazon Rainforest

(Napo river from 3000 ft as we approach Coco)

(The same river as we speed toward Yasuni National Park)

In a motorized long canoe-like vessel, expertly steered by Sixto at high speed, we traverse the Napo River from the left border to the right evading sandbanks and half submerged trees. Sixto as it later turned out became our native guide during our stay in the Amazon forest.

(Miguel distributing lunch with Sixto in the background)

Gary, Linda, Sandee and I flew from Quito an hour plus southwest to Coca, officially named on Ecuadors map as Francisco de Orellana, after the famous conquistador that sailed in the first half of the 16th century from the Napo river over the then unknown Amazon river to the Atlantic Ocean, searching for gold Inca treasures, battling with the storied female Amazon warriors (a name he coined) and bringing that new world to the King of Spain to keep.

(At the edge of the lake looking for its next meal)

The sleepy little town of Coca honors him with a statue and city name.

Movies like Indiana Jones were inspired by his exploits.

(Miguel peddles us through the rainforest)

(Our first view of La Selva lodge)

About 2 hours traveling downstream (it took 3 hours back) we reached LaSelva lodge in the Yasuni National Park, idyllically situated on the edge of a lake, which we reached after half an hour canoe peddling, when at last disembarking our larger motorized fast traveling expedition canoe on the very wide Napo river.

(A night shot at about 7pm of the lake as we peddle back to get dinner)

Our two guides peddle noise is the only disturbance, as we get familiarized with the Amazon forest sounds, sounds we would get accustomed to in the next days. With big blue butterflies dancing in front of us, guiding us to the next sight around the corner (I never caught one with my camera), and passing liane draped fallen trees, peaking out of the water, we strain to see what will come into sight.

(Doesn't this picture radiate quiet and peace - but you miss the sound)

(Is this a crow?. Do they even live in the tropics?)

Our naturalist guide Miguel and native guide Sixto lead the four of us the next 4 days every morning early, when nature awakens and temperatures are bearable and every late afternoon for same reasons over well worn paths carved out by thousands who went before us.

(It's 6 am and Sandee is on the road again)

(The stinky turkey is absolutely inedible and very noisy)

The rest of the day people lounge by the lake or on their bed under the overhead fan in their room. Yoga and massage are optional activities. The bar drew always a few. The best way to describe the conditions here at the lodge is the picture of the drybox in each room, where under a heat lamp we store articles, that should be protected from excessive moist, like iPads, cameras and the like. We forgot to store our flashlight and had to buy a new one back home as rust had destroyed it.

On a brighter note, the trip was totally worth it: almost no rain (the rainy season just started a few weeks earlier) few guests (reason why we had two guides to ourselves) and a fast and furious 4 day education in all that is Amazon, and all that in a semi luxurious environment.

(A 100 ft up to the treetops)

(And this what you see on a misty morning)

There is something magical about a rainforest the size of the USA, where not too far away from us, as we were told, the Hoaorine tribe still avoids contact with the outside world. Sixto's Kichwa tribe, having converted to Christianity receives primary and secondary schooling within a day travel distance (a primary school was located in Philchi, his village, which is nearby our lodge.)

(Philchi village main meeting house with communal kitchen)

(We all shot 3 times with the blow pipe)

(And the winner is?)

We visited Pilchi (you know, the cheesy "visit a local village routine"). Here I successfully pierced a fruit with a blowpipe arrow, a weapon as well as hunting tool, that is still in daily use by the tribesmen.

(We were told the anaconda had come into the village a few days ago)

Although, I doubt that many of you have had the same type of cheesy visit, where we were shown a giant anaconda with a clearly visible chicken bump half way its shiny 17 ft muscular body, placed in a hastily constructed wire cage, with his/her next meal prancing around unaware of its fate.

(Monkeys always a delight to watch)

(He/she took off right after this shot, diving into the lake)

(Beauties)

The Amazon forest becomes visible to us through our guides, a forest full of macaws, monkeys, parakeets, parrots and umpteen numbers of birds I will never recall the names of.

(Shot through the lens of binoculars)

(It's a long way to the bottom)

(We looked at it and it looked back)

We climbed a tower to the top of the tree line and with binoculars spotted birds and monkeys for a few hours in the early morning light, listening to the deafening cacophony of sounds, that the forest produces at six in the morning.

(Resident tarantula about 10 feet from our bedroom)

(Don't ask me what this is)

(A new sprout for the next leg of this walking tree in search of sunlight)

We were shown the resident tarantula just outside our rooms, the marching wasps, insects that beat their wings in such a way that it sounds as if an army battalion is coming towards you as they prepare to defend their hives.

(Ants never stop working)

We went fishing for the "man eating" piranhas, which Gary expertly caught several of. Sandee had to take as consolation prize only a sardine, be it a large one. In the early evenings as light dimmed around us our flashlights exposed cayman eyes at the waterline.

(Gary and his first piranha)

( see those teeth?)

(Sandee after half an hour of fishing for piranhas shows off her sardine)

(There are more fish types to be caught)

Sixto who did not speak English (Miguel did the translating) brought us his forest expertise, regaling us about medicines that the forest provides like Agouti Tail mushrooms (they almost look like coral) against earaches or the red air roots of a certain palm that reduces snoring in the village bedrooms, which are often communal.

(A native nut that is waxy and is used as candle material)

(Base of a walking tree- these trees are living in the shade of the taller ones and move to survive)

(We saw so many mushrooms flourishing on the rot of dead plants)

(Wasp nests and termite hills were all around us)

(Another beauty - I wish I knew my birds)

He spoke to us about the Fernando Sanchez tree, a tree that attracts stinging ants for its sap. The name comes from a plantation owner that found his wife having an affair with his foreman. He tied them both naked to the tree and had the ants do their thing till they were dead. (Never saw the tree)

(These are also lake residents)

(If I remember well this toad was poisonous)

(At night you heard these bats swarming)

On the Sunday we were there it was Presidential Election Day. We had already marveled over the fact that this country uses US dollars as its national currency with dollar coins that not only sported Susan B Anthony but also several US presidents all minted in the US of A.

(Another kingfisher drying his/her wings after multiple dives)

We learned that every citizen over 18 has to vote or be fined 100 US.

Those like our guides who had to work and could therefore not reach a voting station had to produce an employer provided document in which the employer certifies their work requirement while still paying a $50 fine. Showing up at the wrong voting booth, where you are not registered, cost you 50 US also.

(Night pictures)

(Leaves that look like lattice work prove they are food for the many creatures living on them)

Voting provides you with a certificate that is needed for mortgages and bank loans you may wish to apply for later. No certificate, no money. Absentee ballots do not exist. We found that a fascinating tidbit.